Koi Fish Treatments |
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| Hello, here are some treatments some of which I have used and
some which I have only collected notes. Please realize that I am a hobbyist and that
all treatments if used improperlly will kill your fish. I have calculated out
dosages for my pond 400 gallons and filtration tanks 100 gallons (total = 500 gallons). Note: 7.48gal/cuft |
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| neocide-3 dip: need to research this | ||||||||||||||
| Salt: Salt 0.3% = 3000ppm: for 500 gallons = 12.5 lbs Normal Parasites, can use for 2 months. Salt 0.6% = 6000ppm: for 500 gallons = 25 lbs Stuborn Parasites, use for 2 weeks maximum Salt will increase NO2 slightly. Add 1/3 in over 3 days. *Caution! No YPS or Yellow Prussiate of Soda should be in the salt. Prussic Acid is hazardous to fish because it dissociates into Prussic Acid in water! *Doc Johson used animal feed or licks - "salt blocks" from the feed store with excellent results, you need to read labels and look for 99.5% purity with no trace minerals. *http://www.koivet.com/html/articles/articles_details.php?article_id=41&category=13&name= Koi
Health and Disease, by Dr. Erik L. Johnson, D.V.M, page 78 |
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| Baking Soda: To stabilize water hardness. 1lbs/1000 gallon raises KH by 75 points, target is 150 points. I use 1cup/500 gallons after water changes. | ||||||||||||||
| Potassium Permanganate (pp): 1 tsp/600 gallons = 1gPP/100gal= little under 3ppm 1 tsp/400 gallons = little over 4ppm I use 3/4 tsp for my 400 gallon pond. Do not run pp through your biofiltration tanks. Add pp, water turns purple, wait to turn amber (2 to 24 hours). Dose up to 4 times in a row. Deactivate with H2O2 then waterchange. Need total 8 hours of pp 2-4ppm. Note: for small fish tanks, 2t/gallon distilled water, this is the stock. Use 1/3c of stock per 20gal water = 2/3c stock/ 50gal water = 4ml/gallon get 4 ppm. Math: 2t/gal (stock) =(12gPP/gal H2O)x(1/1200)=1gPP/100galH2O2 1/1200=(N/20gal) x (gal/16cups), Solve for N=320cups/1200gal = 0.3cups stock for 20gallon tank. The number of times you use pp is irrelevant. What you want is a total of 8 accumulated hours of pink or purple water 2-4ppm (not red or amber). Add pp to the tune of 1tsp/600gallons. Wait for it to turn completely amber. Let the amber sit a few hours to make sure it is amber. Then add more pp at the same doesage. If I am busy with nonpond related things, I will put pp in once every 24 hours. I just make sure that the water is amber first. If my pond has a lot of algae in it, my water will go from purple to amber in 1 hour. So, that round didn't count. After about 4 or 5 rounds of pp, you have lots of dead algae and what not in your pond. You need to do a water change, 50%. I do 75%. Dechlorinator and hydrogen peroxide (1 cup/1000 gallons) will deactivate the pp and turn your water clear. Now wait 3 days for the H2O2 and dechlorinator to go away. Do another 4 rounds of pp to get your 8 hours. My 30 gal qtank has no rocks and no decoration. |
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| Express IDI (N-cyclopropyl-1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6
triamine): To Kill Fish Lice and Anchor Worms 1/2 tsp per 1000 gallons. 1/4 tsp per 500 gallons. Can leave UV on. Can use with Superverm. After Dimilin treatment, use pp before waterchanging to outside world. |
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| Superverm: Closantel/Mebendazole combination Can leave UV on. Can use with Express IDI. Use with salt, 1ml/1000gallons, one dose only. | ||||||||||||||
| Dimilin (diflubenzuron): | ||||||||||||||
| Pro Form-C: http://www.koicarekennel.com/products.html ProForm-C is the preeminent broad spectrum malachite green & formalin treatment. It is formulated differently than any other malachite green & formalin mix. Malachite green and formalin are two drugs that are more effective in combination than if used individually. This is the definition of synergism. These two drugs are also less toxic in combination than if used individually, What makes ProForm-C the preeminent product in this field is the fact it is formulated with malachite green chloride, while all other MG&F products use the oxalate salt form which is more toxic than the chloride form. As with any malachite green & formalin treatment do NOT use with salt levels above 0.05%. Do not use UV Sterilizer The benefits of ProForm-C * The safest and most effective treatment for the control of diseases caused by Ichthyophthirius (ich), Costia, Trichodina, Chilodonella, Oodinium and fungal infections. * The ONLY MG&F treatment that can be used in water temperatures as low as 50 degrees (F), thus allowing you to treat in early Spring and late Fall. All other MG&F treatments can NOT be used below 62 degrees (F). * Treatment is DAILY. Most other MG&F treatments are dosed once every three days. Dosing daily allows you to complete the treatment in 3 days instead of 9 days. * You do NOT need to bypass your bio-filters which allows a more comprehensive treatment of the entire pond system. * Less toxic to koi and goldfish than any other MG&F product on the market. * Can be shipped NON-HAZMAT legally anywhere in the U.S. 3.5oz/1000 gallons day 1 and 2. 1.75oz/500 gallons day 1 and 2. Captk: Proform-C dip. Try 3 times the standard dose as a 1 hour bath or 3ml/10gal. Make sure you have an airstone in the bath. Formalin is going to be hard on their gills so watch for any gasping on the surface or other stress related behaviour. See how that goes. REC: don't use formalin in high organics or at high temps.. or during direct sunlight... |
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| Clove Oil: For calming the fish
to scrape and torchure it. 12dps/2gallons. Mix it up really well -- in a cup for instance, then add to the bucket. |
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| Metronidazole (INZ): for really
bazaar parasites. 1000mg/100 gallons, 90oF.<---used by someone on message boards. Dyna-Pet, Inc.Instructions - Hole in the head medication. 6000mg capsule /10 gallons. 85oF for Cichlids and 90oF for Discus. Leave for 3 days. Second treatment may be needed. |
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| Medi Koi: Antibiotic Koi Food http://www.koistuff.com/shop/details.php?productId=158&catId=7 Three active ingredients ensure rapid recovery. They are: Romet (Ormetoprim & Sulfadimethoxine), Kanamycin and Oxolinic Acid. Some people do not use Medikoi. There's good arguments that they don't do any good, and worse they may harm the beneficial bacteria in the gut. Attention Please: DO NOT Freeze your Fish Food. Store your feed in an airtight container and place it in a cool, dark, dry place. If your container is large, use a small container to do your daily feeding with, so your not opening up the large container everyday, your food will stay much fresher this way. |
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| Baytril (Enrofloxacin) 2.5%: 0.5ml for 10 inch fish. Inject days 1,2,3, rest day 4, inject day 5. | ||||||||||||||
| Ammonia Blockers: Good for 24-48 hours.ClorAm-X | ||||||||||||||
| High NH4 and NO2: Use filter squeezing from healthy tank to reseed bacteria in unhealthy tank. Dr. Johnson suggested in his book that you can get some filter squeezings from a healthy tank and reseed the unhealthy tank. Please remember that I said healthy tank. If you don't have a healthy tank, maybe someone near you does. In the past I used my tropical tank filters. I figure that if my tropical fish have looked perfect for 6 months (no deaths, no fin and tail rot, etc) and water chemistry is good, that the bacteria is good. If the tank has an undergravel filter, gravel vac 5-10 gallons of brown stuff out for your pond. There is so much to know about ponds, a friend in my club had to remind me today of this trick for my ammonia problem. It is cheap live bacteria. If you don't have a friend with a tank, some vets have big show tanks. Chinese restaurants have tanks too (something about fish being good luck), but check their water quality first. You want Ammonia and Nitrites =0. High Nitrates are ok, because you will be diluting it, 5 gallons into your whole pond. DO NOT GO TO A PET STORE, they have fish and parasites comming and going. If any of the seniors disagree, I bow to them. | ||||||||||||||
| Plants and Air Stones: If you
have a lot of submerged plants the plants will release oxygen during the day which we all
know about but the nasty bit is that after dark the cycle is reversed. The plants will
actually consume oxygen and release carbon dioxide. So if your dissolve oxygen level is
borderline then the plant will take even more oxygen away and the fish will start to gasp
for air. While a lot of people use waterfall as a method of aeration, it is actually not
the most effective. Spray bars and air stones are much more effective. The warmer pond
temp will also decrease the level of dissolve O2. I would say these several factors
combined to land you in this situation. When the sun comes out in the morning, the plants
start to generate oxygen again and hence the happy normal fish. I would suggest you
install more aeration and do a stocktake on you pond plants. They are useful in the
eco-system but they are double edged swords which must be managed as well. Let us know how
you go this evening. BTW, I forgot to mention that this O2/CO2 cycle also causes pH swings as well unless you have very good buffering. CO2 makes the water more acidic. You might want to do pH tests at a little after dawn and dusk to verify this yourself.[captk] It is not just the higher plants, but algae, as well, that puts CO2 back into the water after dark. Even if you removed all of the submerged plants (or did not have any to begin with), there could be enough algae (either planktonic or attached) to add a significant amount of CO2. The movement of oxygen into and out of the water happens pretty quickly and the waterfall and stream (assuming they are running 24/7) would be enough. The problem is getting the CO2 out of the water. That is where air stones or spray bars help. If KH is low and CO2 is the culprit, you will see pH swings between day time and night time. If the KH is high, though, a stable pH does not rule out the possibility that the problem is due to an increase in CO2.[RickF] |
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| Diazinon Poisening: Fortunately,
diazinon is not very stable. That is why it has replaced older insecticides (like DDT,
lindane,chlorodane, etc) that would stay around in the environment for hundreds of years.
Diazinon is easily oxidized by sodium hypochlorite (i.e., houshold bleach). PP will do the
same thing. Either would be much cheaper, faster, and more thorough than activated
charcoal, and both are easily removed from the pond. PP can be inactivated by hydrogen
peroxide, and sodium hypochlorite can be inactivated by sodium thiosulfite (good old
dechlor). RickF Quote: |
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| Ant Killer: Things for ants
harmless to other things Borax - yes mule team borax for those old enough to remember Baking soda & sugar - actually I tried this without the sugar, little dead ants everywhere boiling water - not good with plants vinegar - haven't tried it but again not good with plants The safest one for around ponds is the baking soda or boiling water. Jacki Ramo |
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| Volume Calc: There is another
way to get the exact # of gallons in your ponds. It is called the salt method. You need a
good salt meter to do it. First test the pond water without adding any salt. Record
that salt reading, for me it is .5 ppt or .05% coming out of the tap. Second add a
known amount of salt. I used 8 pounds. Wait 24 hours and test the water again. Record the
amount mine was 1.0 ppt or .10 % Now we are ready for the math..... Here is the formula Known P= pounds Added T= Actual concentration change in ppt Find V= Pond Volume in Gallons V = (P/T) X 120 So for my pond it was 8/.5 = 16 16 X 120 = 1920 So that means my pond is 1,920 gallons of water. That includes all the plumbing. Ronc |
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| Cupramine: Really dangerouse
stuff. Can kill koi fish. Use with caution. http://www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/Cupramine.html For Freshwater Koi fish it is 1ml/20 gallons on day 1 and day 3. Then leave in for 2 weeks. For 500 gallons, it is 25ml on day 1 and 25 ml on day 3. Then leave in for 2 weeks. Can use Cupramine with salt. Turn off UV light. Remove with carbon. Total Concentration of .25mg/L or 250ppm. Need to use test kits because water hardness affects the concentrations. From Seachem: "Leave this amount of Cupramine in solution for a minimum of 2 weeks (even up to 3 - 4 weeks). I also recommend the following medicated food recipe in conjunction with the Curpamine treatment; the recipe I recommend is 1 scoop of Focus (the scoop comes in the vial of Focus) to 1 scoop of Metronidazole (the same scoop comes in the vial of Metronidazole) per tablespoon of frozen food. Focus is a binding agent that will allow you to bind antibiotics to food and Metronidazole is an antibiotic effective against parasites. Completely submerse this mix of food with the antibiotics in Garlic Guard and refrigerate. This mix works best with frozen food. The previously mentioned recipe is also on the Garlic Guard label. Feed this medicated food mix multiple times a day for at least two weeks (preferably longer). You can find more info on these products at http://www.seachem.com. " |
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| Prazi Pond Can use with salt, Proform-C, Anchors Away, Koizyme, H2O2. Parasite Clear by Jungle Labs contains Prazi "Awhile ago we had a discussion about how fast Prazi kills flukes. So, I found a fish (my horse vet neighbor's new Walmart comet) and tried a Prazi dip. I used the bottle dose for the pond but knocked it down to one gallon dip size. I ran the dip for 30 minutes and scraped and scope the little beast and they were dead... all of them. Now, having said that, keep in mind that with any parasite we are dealing with different stages of life and while we may be seeing active adults on the slide, the pond still holds eggs and larvae and this needs to be considered. So pulling a fish from the pond, giving him a Prazi dip for flukes and then returing him to the pond has done nothing for the problem. If a fish has flukes, the pond has flukes. Where a Prazi dips works well is when a new fish is added to the pond and you want to double check that you have eliminated flukes." REC Prazi will completely kill off the parasites with extended life cycles in ONLY the following conditions: 1. Water temperature must be above 75F for the life cycle of the parasite to be complete in one week. 2. Prazi must be applied twice a week apart. 3. The pond must be precleaned with PP before starting with Prazi to drop the Dissolved Organic Carbon load low enough for the Prazi to last long enough to kill the parasites. Roddy Conrad |
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| Aphids on Pond Plants: treat plants separately
in another tub. You can use plain ol' Pam Cooking Spray or you can use this recipe which is: 1 cup Rubbing Alcohol 1 cup Hyrogen Peroxide 1 cup Water 9 small drops of Non-scented Dish Soap. |
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| Plecostemus: Die at 55oF Plecostomus is curative for string algae. The plecostomus is a south american catfish which is ugly as sin but very hardy. You should only need one fish in one thousand gallons and it will eat all the string algae, that's its favorite food. When you go to the pet shop, you need the largest Plecostomus they have. These should be pretty cheap. Here's why: When the averaqge tank hobbyist buys a "Pleco" it's five inches long or less. Within the year, it's pushing ten inches. So they trade it back to the pet shop for "next to nothing" - then the pet shop has to 'unload them' if possible. When you come in asking for a large Plecostomus, you get hooked because they will raise the price sensing that you need such a thing, which to anyone else would be an oversized nuisance. So, ask for a large, 'trade in' Plecostomus. Two notes of caution: At night, in very small ponds, Plecostomus will rasp on (suck on) the flanks of slow moving fish. If the pond is REALLY small and the algae is all gone, they'll suck on anything they can find, and damage some fish. I would not deploy a Plecostomus in a smaller pond (under 800 gallons). If I did, you should know that the larger Plecostomuses are less likely to rasp on other fish than the smaller more agile Plecostomi. If you have a Goldfish, which by some internal pathology is forced to live on the bottom, it will be eaten by the Plecostomus because it cannot get away. Koi never have this problem where the pond is of any size. Secondly, Plecostomus will die when the water temperature drops to fifty five DF. Not 56 DF. Like a light switch, in the Fall of each year, they all die when the water reaches down to fifty five. So you should anticipate this and pull the Plecostomus out and put him in a plastic garbage pail with a little sponge filter for the winter. Feed him a disc of Zucchini every couple days and he'll "hang in" 'til Spring for re-deployment in the pond. by E L Johnson DVM |
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SHO KOI
Impact Ingredients |
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| Jungle Parasite Clear: Active
ingredients: praziquantel = Prazi N-[[(N-Chlorophenyl)amino]carbon 1]-2,6-difluorobenzamide = dimilin http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/insect-mite/ddt-famphur/diflubenzuron/insect-prof-diflubenzuron.html metronidazole = an anti-biotics which is effective against many of the gram negative bacteria, and is also useful against internal protozoal infestation like the hexamita/spironucleus. acriflavine= anaseptic, treatment of external bacterial infection, which can occur as secondary infection to a primary parasitic infestation, especially those that cause the lost of integrity to the skin like the anchorworms or fish louse. For treatment of bacterial infections such as mouth fungus, salt water Ich, fin and tail rot, fungus, saproglenia, skin parasites, oodinium (velvet), sliminess of skin. |
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| Jungle Pond Fizz Parasite Tabs: metronidazole= gram negative antibiotic, see above praziquantel = prazi good against Gyrodactylus (skin fluke) trichlorfon = organophosphate insecticide, http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/extoxnet/pyrethrins-ziram/trichlorfon-ext.html effective against Dactylogyrus (gill fluke) diflubenzuron = dimilin allantoin = healing, moisturizing, soothing and anti-irritating, keratolytic and non-toxic agent useful in dermatological, cosmetic and veterinary preparation. |
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| Jungle Parasite Guard: Sodium Chloride = Salt Trichlorfin = Insecticide gill flukes Diflubenzuron = dimilin again |
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| Jungle Binox Sodium chloride = Salt Nitrofurazone = Nitrofurans are a group of synthetic antimicrobials. Both nifurpirinol and nitrofurazone are effective against many fish pathogens. They are well absorbed through the skin, making them ideal for bath treatments. However, they are carcinogenic and mutagenic and their use with food fish is illegal in most countries http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/treatments/antibiotics.htm |
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| Jungle Internal Parasite Guard acriflavine: Bacterial Anaseptic metronidazole: gram negative antibiotic, see above sodium chloride salt |
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| Jungle Life Guard 1-chloro-2,2,5,5-tetramethyl-4-imidazolidinone = too tired to figure this one out, I just bought it.. |
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| Mebendazole/Trichlorfon combination http://www.blackwell-synergy.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1095-8649.1982.tb03931.x?journalCode=jfb Mebendazole for Gyrodactylus elegans (skin fluke) , trichlorfon for Dactylogyrus (skin fluke) |
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| http://www.versaquatics.com/medications.htm ACRIFLAVINE-Also known as 3,6-Diamino-10-methylacridinium chloride mixed with 3-6 acridinediamine, neutral acriflavine, euflavine, neutroflavine and gonacrine. An antiseptic, protozoacide and dye. Reportedly effective against Babesia bigemina and B. bovis. CHLORAMPHENICOL-also known as chloromycetin, enicol, levomycetin, sintomycin, chlorocid, detreomycin, paraxin, chloronitrin, kemicetine, mychel, amphicol, farmetitina, tevocin, intramycetin, synthomycin and kamycetin. A broad-spectrum antibiotic. It is active against a wide spectrum of gram-negative and gram-positive organisms such as Escherichia coli, Moraxella lacunata, staphylococci including S. aureus, streptococci including S. pneumoniae and S. hemolyticus, Proteus, Neisseria, and Klebsiella/Enterobacter spp. In vitro, chloramphenicol is active against the lymphogranuloma psittacosis group and Vibrio cholerae. Susceptible are several anaerobes, such as Bacteroides fragilis, as well as Rickettsia and Chlamydia spp. Of special note is the efficacy against many Salmonella including S. typhi, Hemophilus influenzae and the resistance of most strains of Pseudomonas aeruginosa. CHLORTETRACYCLINE-also known as aureomycin, biomycin and vimycin. A broad-spectrum antibiotic and growth stimulant. Effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, some large viruses and Rickettsiae. DOXYCYCLINE-also known as 6-Deoxyoxytetracycline and vibramycin. A tetracycline antibiotic active against Rickettsiae, Mycoplasma pneumoniae, agents of psittacosis, ornithosis, agents of Lymphogranuloma venereum, Granuloma inguinale, and Borrelia recurrentis. The following gram-negative microorganisms are susceptible: Haemophilus ducreyi, Pasturella pestis, P.tularensis, Bartonella bacilliformis, Bacteroides spp, Vibrio comma, V. fetus and Brucella spp. FLUBENDAZOL-also known as flumoxal and flumoxane. An anthelmintic compound (a benzimidazole) for antiparasitic use based on the prototype parent compound thiabendazole. FORMALDEHYDE SOLUTION-formalin, formol. A disinfectant, antiseptic, astringent and embalming fluid. Used for skin infections of fish. FURAZOLIDONE-also known as furxone, furoxane, furovag, fiarlam, fiardil, medaron, neftin, nicolen, nifulidone, ortazol, roptazol, tikofuran, and topazone. A nitrofuran with a broad antimicrobial spectrum, including Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus, Proteus, Salmonella, Shigella, Clostridium, Streptoccus, Eimeria, Histomonas spp., Aerobacter aerogenes, Vibrio cholerae and Giardia lamblia. GRISEOFULVIN-also known as gris-PEG, grisactin, grifulvin V and fulvicin. An antifungal agent effective against common dermatophytes: Microsporum, Epidermophyton and Trichophyton spp. It has no effect of bacteria, yeasts, Actinomyces and Nocardia spp., or on other genera of fungi. METRONIDAZOLE-also known as satric, protostat, metryl, metric and flagyl. An antibacterial and antiprotozoal agent. It is active against obligate anaerobes, but apparently does not possess clinically relevant activity against facultative anaerobes, obligate aerobes or microaerophilic bacteria other than Campylobacter fetus and Corynebacterium vaginalis. At some concentrations, it is active against Bacteroides fragilis, B. melaninogenicus, Fusobacterium and Clostridium spp. Generally less active against non-sporeforming, gram-positive bacilli, such as Actinomyces, Propionobacterium, Bifidobacterium and Eubacterium spp. It is somewhat less active against gram-positive cocci, such as Peptostreptococcus and Peptococcus spp. NEOMYCIN SULFATE-A broad spectrum antibiotic. Bactericidal notably to Stapylococcus aureus and Proteus spp. Active mainly against gram-negative organisms, except Bacteroides spp. and Pseudomonas aeruginosa are resistant. NITROFURANTOIN-also known as furadantin, dantafur, furagin, furazidin, furadoine, furachel and N-(5-Nitro-2-furfurylidene)-1-aminohydantoin. Susceptible organisms include Escherichia coli, Staphlococcus aureus, Streptococcus pyogenes and Aerobacter aerogenes. Proteus spp., Pseudomonas aeruginose and Streptococcus faecalis are usually resistant. NYSTATIN-also known as nilstat and mycostatin. An antifungal and antibiotic. It is active against a variety of yeasts and yeast-like fungi. It has no appreciable activity against bacteria, actinomycetes, viruses or trichomonads. OSSPULVIT-multivitamin and trace element combination bound to a water-insoluble powder. OXYTETRACYCLINE-also known as terramycin, imperacin, berkmycin, tetran, oxyterracin, tetrachel, liquamycin, biostat and oxysteclin. Active against infections caused by Rickettsiae, Mycoplasma pneumoniae, agents of psittacosis and ornithosis, agents of Lymphogranuloma and Granuloma inguinale, and Borrelia recurrentis. Use against the gram-negative microorganisms Haemophilus ducreyl, Pasturella pestis, P. tularensis, Bartonella bacilliformis, Bacteroides spp., Vibrio comma, V. fetus and Brucella spp. PIPERAZINE CITRATE-also known as antepar, tripiperazine dicitrate, multifuge, oxucide, pipizan citrate, pinrou, exopin, parazine, helmezine, and arpezine. Piperazine, along with its derivative diethylcarbamazine, is an anthelmintic. The spectrum of activity is largely against ascarid parasites in all species and also Oesophagostomum spp. There is a variable activity against hookworms and strongyles, but little effect against whipworms or flatworms. QUININE SULFATE-also known as quinamm and quindam. A neuromuscular agent, more toxic than quinine hydrochloride. TETRACYCLINE-also known as achromycin, tetrcyn, hostracycline, panmycin, bristacycline, polotic, steclin, solvodin, and criseocycline. A broad spectrum antibiotic indicated for infections caused by the following microorganisms: Rickettsiae, Mycoplasma pneumoniae, agents of psittacosis and ornithosis, agents of Lymphogranuloma venerum and Granuloma inguinale, and Borrelia recurrentis. It is effective against the gram-negative microorganisms Haemophilus ducreyl, Pasturella pestis, P. tularensis, Bartonella bacilliformis, Brucella, and Bacteroides spp., Vibrio comma and V. fetus. TETRACYCLINES-very broad spectrum antibiotics with similar antimicrobial features. They differ somewhat from one another in their specra and pharmacokinetic fates there are three naturally occurring tetracyclines (oxytetracycline, chlortetracycline and demethylchlortetracycline). Several are derived semisynthetically (tetracycline, rolitetracycline, methacycline, minocycline, doxycycline, lymecycline, and others). TETRAMISOLE-also known as tetramizole, nilverm, ripercol, citarin, concurat, galinid, anthelvet, decaris, R 8299, McN-JR 8299, Bayer 9051, ICI 50, 627 and d1-2,3,5,6-Tetrahydro-6phenylimidazo [2, 1-b] thiazole. An anthelmintic. TRICAINE-also known as MS-222, ethyl-m-aminobenzoate methanesulfonate and metacaine. An anesthetic and narcotic. It is one of the safest anesthetics for fish. Lower dosages tranquilize. following its use, large numbers of fish can be transported in a limited amount of water with supplemental oxygen. Solutions are toxic to fish if used in direct sunlight or salt water. Do not use within three weeks of harvesting fish for human consumption. TRICHLORFON-also known as neguvon, dipterex, ditrifon, dylox, dyrex, dyvon, chlorphos, chlorofos, metrifonate, trichlorophone(e), Bot-X, hypodix, wotexit, delicia, Bayer L 13/59, anthon and 0-0-Dimethyl 2,2,2-trichloro-1-hydroxyethyl phosphonate. An insecticide. TRIMETHOPRIM-also known as monotrim, proloprim, syraprim, tiempe,trimanyl, trimopan, trimpex and wellcoprim. Used alone, this diaminopyrimidine is not particularly effective against bacteria. The combination of trimethoprim and sulfonamides has expanded sulfonamide therapy. The synergistic action is effective against gram-negative and gram-positive organisms, including Actinomyces, Bordetalla, Clostridium, Corynebacterium, Fusobacterium, Haemophilus, Klebsiella, Pasteurella, Proteus, Salmonella, Shigella, and Campylobacter spp, as well as Escherichia coli, Streptococci and Staphylococci. Pseudomonas and Mycobacterium spp. are not susceptible. |
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